Twenty Ten to Twenty Eleven

I wait to say I love you. So, now I know I’m in love. Here’s a late post about the S/S 2011 fashion shows.

I didn’t immediately fall for the tacky 90s trends, the weird food or flower graphic prints or the typical onslaught of khaki-and-color-for-warmer-weather stuff. Smatterings of trend and color are welcome, yes, but minimalism, tailoring & draping and ink-dipped looks are always going to finish first with me.

Here are my final favorites from all of the shows I saw from New York / Paris / Milan / London for S/S 2011

(Yes, you’re right. I didn’t clean up all of my screen-capped images!)

Altuzarra

Joseph Altuzarra understands what I need in my life: an amalgamation of the 1960s and techno and Art Deco and neon detailing.

Rick Owens

 

Incredible footwear in this season. Though Rick Owens is um, generally unaffordable (to me), his designs are such an inspiration for draping and layering basic pieces and cloth. There is a muted regality to Rick Owens that I always love.

Gareth Pugh

Pugh dominated all of the collections this season! His video is incredible.

 

 

Anne Demuelemeester



Haider Ackerman

This line actually might be the most avant-garde of the powerhouse collections. Wearability is questionable, but I love the dichotomy of large volume and little coverage in many of the outfits.

 

 

Chanel

Chanel is church. You have to go, and you have to respect.




Burberry Prorsum

This line is keeping the punk aesthetic alive.

I COVET THIS JACKET
YES. I CAN WEAR THIS EVERY FRIDAY, SATURDAY AND FUNDAY
I ALSO GREATLY DESIRE THIS MAN :)
Hussein Chayalan
I’m a sucker for the veiled and cloaked.
Loved this bunraku theater-style presentation of this dress! Haha!
Viktor & Rolf
This duo is visionary. Looking at their collections is like witnessing history unfold.
Balenciaga
Not my favorite season, but these jackets are amazing.
A.F. Vandevorst
Black/white/grey gradient and paint staining, and what was deemed “glamour armor” dominated this line’s aesthetic. Simple cuts and lux fabrics make this line wearable.

This last outfit is INCREDIBLE. I absolutely need slashed pants and sandals that seamlessly match now.
Givenchy
Marios Schwab

Mark Fast
I’m a fan of his “modified pentagram” design/icon too.

Carlos Miele
Just love this dress!
Roberto Cavalli
I also fell for this fringe/ladder/crochet dress. I’m allergic to most bohemian styles, but Miele and Cavalli had some incredible pieces out this season.
Alexander McQueen
Since Alexander McQueen’s passing, Sarah Burton has taken over as the designer for the main McQueen line. I think she did a great job for S/S 2011, considering the incredible pressure to succeed McQueen after such tragic circumstances and to follow up her Resort 2010 line for McQueen.

From Style.com’s Tom Blanks:
It’s hard to conceive of a more thankless task in fashion than taking over from a designer as galvanizing as Alexander “Lee” McQueen, but Sarah Burton is precisely the kind of quiet powerhouse who has what it takes to grab hold of his legacy and drag it where it needs to go to survive and prosper. As much as she worked beside McQueen for 15 years and clearly had a symbiotic connection to his very particular vision, it’s her gender that is her greatest asset and point of difference, at least as it shaped tonight’s show. The very first outfit could stand as a manifesto for the future: The tail coat is a trad McQueen piece, but here it was softened, its edges unfinished, and the hard, peaked shoulders that were another McQueen signature had been slashed open, relaxed.
The footwear isn’t original in design, but the designs are still fun and packed with the detailing that carries the McQueen design fingerprint.
McQueen’s spirit and aesthetic vision is definitely present in Sarah Burton’s designs, but lacking in this line is the sadistic, restricted construction that gained McQueen notoriety. Perhaps Sarah Burton will make the McQueen line more wearable for more women, and hopefully that is a good course for the continuation of this design house.
Givenchy
Mark Fast
Jeremy Scott
Cheeky lot of clothes, right? Love and desire these two:

RAD by Rad Hourani
Rad Hourani’s androgynous approach to fashion is really appealing, and very inspirational for daily style. I love the Rick Owens – Gareth Pugh – Rad Hourani ilk of designers and stylists.
Neil Barrett
These are the most wearable pieces I saw and liked, which means I want them the most!
YSL
This was a traditionalist season for the line, it seems. Loving the radical silhouettes!
Junya Watanabe
Fell in love with just one:
Yohji Yamamoto
Thinking Japanese.


This is the shirt that I absolutely need now.
Marchesa
Red carpet and pagan seance friendly gowns!
That’s the closest I’ll get to a wedding gown.
Loving black tassel fringe on the ends of rose, peach and ivory clothes. Very 1920s!
Hermés
This season is Jean-Paul Gaultier’s swan song with the brand, and I think his exit is lovely. Incorporating the equestrian tradition of the brand and showcasing some of his strengths (immaculate tailoring and corseting), this show is really beautiful.
“Translucent crocodile skin” is something that could only come from Gaultier for Hermes!
Harnesses!!! I’m a big fan of this accessory.
Maison Martin Margiela
If you haven’t seen these garments, you must see them now. Margiela is from a different planet.



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